allen



May 15,1928. 1,669,801

J. M. ALLEN K METHOD OF MAKING HOSIERY Filed Dec. 22. 1925 Patented May 15, 1928. y.

UNITED STATES JOHN M. ALLN, TORONTO,` ONTARIO, CANADA;

METHOD oF MAKING HosInRY.

Application filed December 22,1923. Serial No. 682,20.

The principal objects of the invention are, to produce a full fashioned hose free from seams or Welt-s on the underside of the foot and in the heel and having smoothly tapering ankle and leg portions and to improve on the method of manufacture described in my co-p'ending application,` Serial "Number 665,909, filed October 1st, 1923.

`A further object is to devise a practical method of knitting a full fashioned hose upon a circular knitting machine. y

The principal features'of the invention consist in forming al triangular-shaped heel and forming the foot section in two portions seemed together at the sides, the angle portionfbeind shaped'to match the triangular heel and tbeing connected thereto, the ankle and leg portion being gradually increased in diameter by increasing the number of stitches gradually. y

The method of knitting consists in first forming a supporting circular fabric and knitting thereto a triangular-shaped fabric to form a heel by reducing the number of needles in operation to the minimum and gradually increasing the number of needles in operation to form a fabric, of increasing width until the maximum Width of theheel is produced, then forming the heel gore and continuing the `operation of knitting with a portion of the needles to form the bottom half of the foot, then forming a rtoe gore and producing the fabric for the upper half of the foot bythe use of a portion of the needles, then forming `the ankle portion by increasing the number of needles and knitting into the supporting circular fabric a number of stitches equal to the taper of the heel section, then continuing the knitting of the leg portion with a gradually increasing number of needles to form a tapering structure, then looping the supporting fabric along the tapered edges of the heel Vand lthe tapered edges of the ankle portion and severing the surplus of the supporting fabric.

In the accompanying drawings, Figure l is an elevational View of the foot portion of a stocking constructed according to this invention.

Fi ure 2 is a diagrammatic view illustrating t e steps of the method of knitting.

Figure 3 is a perspective view. showing the manner of supporting the various sections of the hose in the knitting process.

Figure 4 is a perspective detail illustrating the manner of looping the heel.

Figure 5 is a diagrammatic view similar to Figure fl on a reduced scale'.

The `manufacture of hosiery upon circular knitting machines has been restricted to the cheaper grades, because of the inability to produce a full fashioned shape, that is, a shape of stocking in which the angle and foot portion has substantially the same length of loop in the stitches as the leg portion, so that thehose Will have uniformelasticity. i

In the present process "a fullcircle of a knitted fabric usiiigthe entire number of needles is first knitted. Thisis represented bythe hand l illustrated in Figures 2 and 3.

The entire complement of needles with the exception of tivo or three are then held inoperative in a manner Well known in the art and knitting is then continued, bringing into operation extra needles at the endss of the rows as may be desired, so as to produce a V-shaped fabric, as indicated bythe numeral 2. This V-shaped fabric 2 in Figure 2 is not shown attached to the band'but the joined arrows in the angle are intended to indicate that the fabrics so joined 'are knitted together. This is of course necessary and the actual manner in which manufacture is carried out, in that this tapered fabric must be knitted `to the band 1 in order to accomplish the result Which Willhereinafter apear.

lVhen the produced the needles are againmanipulated in the formation of the heel gore 3 according to the usual practice. The knitting is then continued with the desired number of needles to foim the lovver half section 4 of the foot and when the desired length of suchsection has been knitted, the toe gore 5 is formed.

Thev knitting then-continues forming the upperhalf section 6 of the foot portion and vI `igure 3, the band l being shown with the heel section 2 knitted thereto in a gradual increasing Width until the full Width is obtained at the points 2. y

The knitting of the heel gore 3 then progresses and after the foot portions 4 and 6 are formed the fabric is then knitted into desired Width of heel has been lll) the loops of the band l at the points 2 and continued at either side ot the band l for a length equal to the length of the fabric from the point 2 to the apex of the heel. The leg fabric is then knitted for a desired length with a selvedge edge and as the d1- aineter of the leg is desired to be increased in the shaping thereof further needles are put into action on each side until the full complement of needles is in operation.

-After the leg of the stocking is completed the connecting portion 9 of the band l is cut away and a row of stitches of the supporting fabric parallel ywith the heel portion 2 are cast on to the points of a looping machine in thc manner illustrated in Figure 4. The fabric is then reversed from the points 2 on either side and the stitches of the supporting fabric 1 parallel with the portions T are cast back over the saine points as that of the portion 2, until the two portions of the fabric meet. The looping machine then forms the loop stitch l() which connects the V heel to the ankle. This loop stitch introduced here not only connects the heel with the ankle portion in a very sightly manner but does so without producing a seam or welt which would be uncomfortable to the wearer.

A stocking such as described may be proportioned so as to produce a perfectly fitting garment without puckersor welts and the only seainslare at the sides extending between the heel and toe gores Where they Will not be uncomfortable or injurious.

lfVhat I claim as my invention is 1. A method of knitting hosiery consisting in iii-st knitting a circular fabric on a circular knitting machine, then withdrawing the major portion of the needles from operation, then knitting the heel, foot and ankle portions with a reciprocating movenient forming a tapered heel and correspondingly shaped ankle which tapered heel and ankle portions are knitted into the first knitted circular fabric to form taper selvedge edges, then continuing the knitting beyond the last knit ankle portion to form the leg portion of the stocking, then looping said taper edges together, removing the first knit circular fabric and seaining the remaining edges together to complete the formation of the stocking.

Leasoi 2. A method of knitting hosiery consisting in iii-st knitting a circular fabric on a circular knitting machine, then withdraw- Ving the i'najorportion `of the needles from operation, then forming a diverging fabric by gradually increasing the number of needles in operation knitting saine to the circular fabric lirst produced, then continuing the knitting operation to form the foot portion in bottom and top half sections, then knitting in the ankle portion by a gradual increase in the number ol' needles used connecting same to the original circular knit portion, then continuing the knitting bevond the last knit ankle portion, completing the knitting of the leg portion to the desired dimensions, then removing said circular knit portion and looping the stitches of the diverged heel portion to tlie stitches of the ankle portion adjoining the top foot section and then seaining the back oi the leg portion and the sides of the foot portion.

A method of knitting hosiery consisting in first knitting a circular fabric on a circular knitting machine, then withdravi' ing the major portion ot the needles from operation, then forming a divergent fabric by gradually increasing the number of nce' dles in operation knitting saine to the circular fabric lirst produced, then continuing the knitting operation to form the foot portion in bottoni and top half sections, then knitting in the ankle portion by a gradual increase in the number of needles used connecting same to the original circular knit portion, then continuing the knitting beyond the last knit ankle portion, completing the knitting of the leg portion to the desired dimensions, then removing said circular knit portion and casting a row of stitches of the supporting fabric adjacent to the edges of the diverging heel portion upon a looping machine, then doubling hack the ankle portion knitted to the circular section and casting the stitches of the supportingr fabric on to the points from either side to bring the edges together at the apex of the convergent heel, then loop stitching these cast on loops together. then seainiiig the back of the stocking and the sides ofthe foot sections.

JOHN M. ALLEN. 

